Material Gold, turquoise, lapis lazuli, ruby, carnelian, coral, and silk thread
Dimensions 12.5 x 10.5 cm (excluding pendant)
Place of Creation Tibet, Ü-Tsang Province, Lhasa
Status Vetted

About the Work

Jewels of Authority: A Rare Set of Tibetan Official’s New Year Ornaments

These magnificent New Year ornaments (ringyen), worn by Tibet’s highest-ranking government officials, are a rare and stunning survival of an age-old tradition where power, spirituality, and artistry converged. Crafted from gold, turquoise, lapis lazuli, ruby, carnelian, and coral, they were an essential part of the regalia displayed during Losar, the Tibetan New Year. Their exceptional craftsmanship and remarkably preserved complete set distinguish them as one of the finest known examples.


The tradition of wearing ringyen dates back to the Fifth Dalai Lama (1617–1682), who sought to revive the grandeur of Tibet’s imperial past by reinstating elaborate court ceremonies inspired by the Yarlung Dynasty (7th–9th centuries). On Gyalpo Losar (King’s New Year), officials wore their prescribed ornaments and ceremonial robes, which were so carefully regulated that one could identify a person’s rank solely by their jewelry. These exquisite objects, stored in the Potala Palace Treasury, were issued to officials for the occasion, reinforcing both hierarchical order and Tibet’s dynastic heritage.


The Moon-Eater motif, central to this ornament set, merges two protective figures: Garuda, the celestial bird warding off illness, and Kirtimukha ("Face of Glory"), a fierce guardian found on temple thresholds. In Tibetan belief, this hybrid figure devouring the moon symbolizes cosmic protection and renewal.


The main ornament features a striking kirtimukha with ram’s horns, ruby eyes, lapis eyebrows, and a half-vajra, reinforcing its protective power. Beneath it, the moon disc is formed of gold filigree and turquoise inlay, arranged like a radiant lotus. The counterweight, worn on the left shoulder, mirrors this design, adorned with coral, lapis, and turquoise, linked by a cord with coral beads and a silk tassel.


Beyond their ceremonial use, ringyen held profound spiritual significance. When not worn, many were donated to Buddhist temples, adorning statues of revered deities and even the tombs of the Dalai Lamas within the Potala Palace, where they were believed to accumulate merit and sacred power.


Complete sets of ringyen are exceedingly rare, with few surviving examples. This set, notable for its uniformly vibrant turquoise, precise gold settings, and exceptional condition, stands among the finest known. As both a symbol of political authority and spiritual devotion, it represents a unique intersection of Tibetan history, religious practice, and artistic excellence.

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Provenance

Hong Kong art market, 1980s–1990s
Private French collection, acquired from the above
French cultural passport no. 243016

Literature

Published:
Jane Casey, Renaud Montméat, Chino Roncoroni & Iwona Tenzing, Regal Adornments: Jewelry from the Tibetan Empire (7th–9th Centuries) to the Spiritual Reign of the Dalai Lamas (17th–19th Centuries) (Tenzing Asian Art catalog, TEFAF Maastricht 2025), cat. no. 10